When World War II ended in 1945, fashion, as it always does, soon reflected the new post-war world, and no one in fashion demonstrated that spirit better than Christian Dior, with a collection that was named the "New Look." But what was so new about his look?
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Museum display of the New Look, Moscow 2011
By shakko (Own work), via Wikimedia Commons |
As World War II splintered Europe, nations rationed civilians' food and textiles to make sure the soldiers on the frontline had enough resources to continue fighting. (See what the women wore who took over men's factory jobs here.) Minimalism and functionality were key, even in dress. Skirts were to the knee and blouses were simply cut, as shown in the picture below. These rations were taken so seriously that Balenciaga's couture house was temporarily shut down in 1941 because it exceeded its allotted fabric rations.
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Women celebrating the end of World War II, 1945
By Alexandra Studios [Public domain or Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons |
In 1947, after the war and its forced frugality ended, Monsieur Dior debuted his Corolle collection, which featured the Bar Suit, the most iconic look of the group. The Bar Suit was new because the jacket had padded hips and more detailed architecture, while the skirt's hem was longer and fuller. The skirt required more than triple the amount of fabric than dresses made during the austere war years!
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1997 Barbie wearing Christian Dior's New Look
Photo via Flickr, Vagner Carvalheiro |
While a nipped-in waist and a full skirt was a common look among the corseted women from decades earlier, this look was new and fresh after the war, and it became the defining silhouette of the 1950s. The popularity of Dior's pieces invigorated his newly founded couture house and also revived Paris as a fashion capital of the world. This look is still celebrated for its femininity and is one of my favorite silhouettes because of the way it flatters my figure. Merci, Christian Dior!